No.1 About the 1st October 1847 I was at Sincapore, I had previously left a vessel there (of which I was Chief Mate) sick. On my recovery I found it difficult to obtain a situation according to my wishes and not being very much of cash, I accepted the charge of a junk belonging to a Chinese Merchant. I was to have 150 dollars to navigate her to Hong Kong where my engagement would terminate. The vessel had formerly been an opium clipper of about 200 tons. She had been condemned as unworthy of repair and sold by auction. A Chinese bought her and converted her into a junk. She was loaded I believe chiefly with sawn timber for building and more other things for the Chinese Market. There were also 8 large guns (dismantled) I suppose for sale. They were about 24 pounders. She had a crew of about 30 men and there were 30 passengers. All Chinese some rich other very poor. The vessel being ready I went on board glad to get away to some place where I might have a chance of employment. I had not had much experience in Indian & China seas or I should not perhaps have taken this employment, for I was told by several parties I was
too late in the season to go the direct route to Hong Kong. However being rather hard with *******, I was happy to be doing something for a living at any risk besides never having had the command of any craft I was rather proud of my appointment. Achong, the owner, had according to my request supplied me with a chronometer. I was also furnished with a servant and a plenty of provisions. The principal cabin had been divided in half’s one half I had to myself and on the whole considered myself partly comfortable. We sailed about noon on the 1st Oct as near as I can remember with a pure SW wind and in the evening we were of Padre Brancas. The wind continued from SW and I was in good hopes of having good run up. We were out about 12 days and during this time we had had some very hard squalls and our sails being made of sort of light sacking they had become much torn by the constant lowering and hoisting. I intimated to the Nocada (Chinese Captain) the necessity of repairing them as by this time they were nearly half blown away and daily getting worse. They began to patch them up but I soon found they had no spare cloth or board or else. They were too lazy to mend them so would not produce it. I also began to find out they were dissatisfied and expected they should Padre Brancas.
have been at our destination, had the vessel been properly found in sails she would no doubt have been at her port with such a poor rig 90 miles per day with a strong *** wind was the utmost she could accomplish. We had now arrived within about 400 miles of our destination when our SW Monsoon left us and we were several days rolling about in a calm with very heavy swell from the NE. The craft laboured very much and began to leak and I now found there was only one pump fit for service and not in perfect order. I represented the case to Nocada upon which they sounded the pumps and rather to their astonishment found about 4 feet water in the hold. They now began to bustle about and made the other pump to work and in the course of several hours we pumped her out dry. I now found out the Nocada was a main cipher amongst them for neither crew nor passengers cared for him in any way relating to the vessel all seemed to do as they liked and what they pleased. For myself I had the greatest difficulty to get them to steer the right course. They seemed to think
nothing of going into *** of new course rather than give the mainsail. Nothing was done by day to keep the vessel in order. The decks full of lumber and nothing lashed. One night she was rolling very heavy when two large water casks fetched way and smashed the *** and compass. Luckily the compass was saved it was the only one we had. At the same time several casks of coal tar got (stored) and the decks were covered with it and every thing to great confusion. They now began to put things a little to right. The NE monsoon now set with heavy squalls from that Quarter and the constant lowering and hoisting of the sails in the squalls soon made them utterly useless to sail with a foul wind. The continued drifting about 30 miles to leeward every day in fact there was not efficient courses to move her ahead more than a knot per hour with a pure fresh Breeze. Several days passed in this way and no appearance a change of wind. It began to strike me so the best thing to head up for Sincapore as it was quite impossible to head for our port without sails. I could not fetch Manila and the coast of Cochin China. I did not know any thing about. However when they heard what I recommended none of them appeared willing to agree to it except the Nocada but he was *** by the
crew – Achong by name. Among the passengers was Chinese a Merchant. There was also a Priest. These two now appeared to make the crew act just as they wished. Myself and the Nocada were now set at *** and from this time they entirely refused to steer the vessel as I wish them. They now made a fair wind of it and steered to the NW towards the Gulf of Tonquin as narrowly (I think) escaped running on the Darecil Shoals as by any latitude we would have passed close to them in the night notwithstanding my recommendations against steering that course but they would not pay the slightest attention to my directions. They continued running to the NW several days which brought it to the entrance of the Gulf of Tonquin. Then the wind came to the East they kept her close to the wind and going through they did not know it right up the Gulf.
No.2 The Wreck. We were now in the middle of the Gulf of Tonquin. The wind which had been light from the ENE for several days now shifted to NNE and increased to a gale. We continued going to the WNW and at noon I found by my observations that we were 30 or 40 miles from the shore of Cochin China so that if we continued our course we should run on shore during the night. The weather grew worse towards evening with a very high sea which was continually washing over our little vessel and not having sufficient canvas she laboured and *** about very much. The crew who were mostly very *** sailors though perhaps good for Chinese began to get alarmed and not having anyone to control them (the principle men in *** being sea sick below) they did nothing towards making things secure and there was now every appearance of a hurricane it blowing harder every minute. I used all means to convince them of their error in continuing on this course. I brought up my chart and tried to explain to them the outline of the coast and by signs I believe I made them understand we were running into danger and I began to hope they would comply with my wishes which was to go on the opposite jack and increase our distance from the land at least until more favorable weather. All the crew and passengers now came on deck and
I of course thought with the intention of ***. The helm was put up and the sails squared and the vessel bounded of from the wind. They continued steering right before the wind to my great astonishment and horror when I found they did not intend to alter their course. Matters were now worse than ever, as our head was nearly towards the land and going seven or eight knots per hour. I knew we should soon approach the land. I cannot describe my feelings at this time. I was almost frantic at being thus carried against my will to almost certain distinction. I begged and intricated them to alter their course but with no effect. They made me understand it was their opinion that I did not know where the ship was. Finding all words with them useless for they only made spat of all I said I made a rush to the helm pushing the man away and pulling it hard a starboard with the intention of bringing her on the port jack. Thus they would not have but drove me away in my turn threating to throw me overboard and kept her still running to destruction. The weather was now exceeding bad blowing with great fury DELETED
A strange movement was now made. All the live stock was ordered by the Priest to be killed. Several pigs and sheep and about a dozen fowls of my own however all were hastily drest and preparation made for a religious feast. Several dozen dishes of the various animals were arranged about the deck, heaps of cooked rice and vegetables, soups and fruits, several *** of raw rice were got up from below, bundles of joss (or Holy paper) was got up these were square pieces of coarse paper with gold or silver squares in the center and are burnt inwardly by the Priest or somebody deputed by him wherever a squall happened accompanied by short prayer for our safety. The feast being all ready, a languish portion of each sort (I really think the worst portion) was placed in several dishes, the Priest then took up the principle one and the rest of the chief men of the vessel each taking up one of the remaining dishes they all made a movement towards the bow of the vessel. When all were assembled a Prayer was opened and the Priest performing the Kotow (or the bowing down to the ground) afterwards each man threw the contents of his dish overboard muttering at this time a short Prayer. This being over they all made *** with the remains of the Feast and I must give them their due for they send me a large portion of it. However as my appetite was not ***** I could well have
afforded to have given it to Joss the Demon of the sea had my creed been the same as theirs. My only hope now was that we should make the land in time to be *** to keep of it. But it was now getting dark and the wind had increased very much and the sea very heavy and it was with difficulty they could steer her, although there were six men at the helm. A man was stationed on each side with a *** of raw rice and every heavy sea that rose astern – several handfuls of it was thrown overboard. The man at the time starling loudly for it (I suppose to come easy). So passed part of the night. About 11 o’clock we passed and island “scovel” *** quite close that you could see the *** lashing against it with great fury. Now *** I may will haul the ship to the wind so they must see that they are running into danger. On the contrary they gave me to understand that now they had seen this land they been quite certain of their position and all would ****** for they **** now running for a harbour. Although I knew this could not be yet somehow I cling to the idea and hoped it would be so. The wind was now blowing a hurricane and the sea tremendous are *** of breaking almost away I
suppose. The shallowness of the water *** huge seas making*** the ship rolling *** without ceasing. They now got very much alarmed and commanded to throw overboard every *** This done the carpenter to my great consternation began to cut away the mainmast. I had been quite resigned to my fate since I could not *** on them to alter the course and hoped at least we should find a sandy beach. I had also hoped we should discover the land in time to keep off the shore. But now my last hope was gone as to saving the vessel. I went down to my cabin to take a last look at the charts. I then put on my *** the remainder of and than began to look about for some means of having myself. I had been smoking cigars all night as ***
No.3 I could do ***. I think this is a charm in a cigar for in proportion as hope vanished. I have now seemed to get more. Something seemed to tell me I should be saved. I did not however neglect the necessary precautions. I spliced a piece of rope round my waist to lash myself to something when the ship should reach the shore. This I well knew could not be fardistant and then I sided myself beside the Nocada (or master of the Junk). He was good friend with me and I believe would have done all that I wished but was overled by the crew and passengers two of which the Priest and Achong who appeared to be superior Chinese as he was such respected by all the rest on board had the power of doing as they pleased. So we ran *** it blowing a perfect hurricane. I wonder how they managed to steer her before it. The carpenter was still cutting at the mainmast but it was tuff stick and would not go easy. I was seated on the top of the *** and was higher than the rest. Presently a long white line appeared ahead breaking of course. The Nacodah communicated this news to the men lower down. I shall never forget the dismal cries on *** they set up. I did much wonder of it as most of them had been all embarked with them now it seems they found out their error. Some of them ran to me to see what could be done but I took no head now. I well know our only chance was to run and
*** to *** for a soft place to take the shore. And we ran and luckily they managed to steer her for the seas which was now *** high presently we entered the ***. Then came a tremendous wave rearing itself up astern as if it would swallow us up but I think this huge fellow saved us for it took us *** before it broke lifting the *** vessel right on end and we appeared to go at a tremendous rate on the top of it, as soon as this dissolved the ship struck the beach softly *** and fell over her bilge when the mainmast fell overboard. Owing to our light draught of water this heavy wave had carried us cleverly through the heavy put of the surf and we were only struck by the broken water but that was quite heavy enough to break the vessel up. The passengers and crew were all pulled together in the longboat, as for myself I ran forward when the ship struck and clenched up the Foremast and then lashed myself. The broken water now struck the *** very heavy sending large *** of water flying over us. The might was such as to nearly to knock all the wind out of my body. I remember the *** sea flattering my face up against the mast hurting me very much, but I took the precaution afterwards to lay my head close to the spar before the water struck us. All round I could see nothing but the white foam.
Here we remained for about 2 hours the vessel gradually breaking to pieces. Day now began to dawn and I *** some black *** spots like rocks ashore of us and it got light to our great relief I found they were boats, and now we could see the natives running about the shore all intent on plunder and not carrying a *** for our shout for assistance. Whilst trying to make myself heard, down fell the foremast with me on it, taking me a fathom under water. I with difficulty unlashed myself from it, and get hold of a piece of a plank intending to make for the shore, but not finding it large enough, and the sea being full of pieces of wreck, I regained the wreck again. She was now fast going to pieces. I found nearly all the Chinese huddled together in the boat on the deck. I wonder how it escaped being washed off. There was Achong and the Priest seated in the boat. The pictures of misery. They kindly invitated me in but judging she had now many more than she would carry is she was in the water, I declined, but made signs for them to get out and launch the boat. Some of them now got out with that intention when a long heavy sea struck the wreck washing the deck completely off, washing off several men. Away went the deck like a large flat bottom boat with the long boat and crew on the top. Nothing could have been more fortunate than this for we
soon floated into shallow water and we could now see the shore plain all white sand hills for miles which account for our not having seen it sooner. Presently one fellow made a *** and got the ground up to his waist and scamping off we all following as fast as we could. Several were drowned even now by the drawback of the waves pulling them out of their depth we found 5 missing and several severely bruised. I was among the latter. I had *** several cuts on my right hand from which I did not recover for some months. I had not the least recollection when I received this hurt and did not feel it until I got on shore safe. It was just broad daylight when we got on shore we found the beach *** with the wreck and cargo lots of chests and boxes which the natives were breaking up with axes and running off with the contents. I did not discover the least particle of my effects, indeed I was to much part to look after anything. So that all I saved was what I had on consisting of a pair of white trousers (the left leg torn off), a flannel, and a check shirt with the right sleeve torn off at the shoulder. I had neither cap nor shoes, but during the day one of the crew gave me an old red cap that he had picked up among the
wreck. I found we had luckily came ashore in a good spot, a flat sandy beach, but my wonder was how we got through the heavy ***. I never saw anything so equal them and I would not have believed a ship could have come through them without swamping. The roar of them after the wind had ceased was like incessant thunder. I found that after hours after we landed that the wind had shifted to the opposite quarter and blew harder than ever which continued till the evening when it moderated.
No. 4 As soon as we got safely on shore and the daylight increased we found several fisherman’s huts close by. I followed some of the men into one of them. There was a woman and two little children. They seemed very much impressed and as our numbers increased for *** the men all followed us we had regular taken the hut by storm. The woman began to shout, but no use. We would not *** but lit a large pin in the middle of the floor and dried our clothes. Here we remained all day. The storm blowing with great fury. Towards evening it moderated. We got something to eat about this time, some boiled rice flour saved from the wreck. I was very hungry as I had fasted for about 30 hours but my share of the food did not half satisfy me. I can’t say much for the hospitality of the natives for we did not get appear to get much from them at least I did not. They seemed to be very poor people and to be almost *** themselves of *** The owner of the hut went off this evening to the nearest town (Compeng) to acquaint the authorities and *** food for us. He returned the next morning with a small supply of coarse rice accompanied by some petty official from the town. His mode of communicating with the junk crew
was rather curious: finding they could not understand him he squatted down on the sand smoothed a place and made the Chinese characters in the sand with his finger. Our people quite understood this and wrote in the sand in their turn. In this way they kept up a conversation for some hours often pointing to me, however I could not discover the purpose of it. The official afterwards began to write characters in the sand to me but for no purpose. He seemed very much surprised that I could not understand him. Tea was served to him of which he civilly invited me to partake of. The crew now according to his instructions began to knock up a hut out of the planks of the wreck and by evening they had made a sort of shelter in which we made our beds in the sand. During the night it came out to rain heavy and below which proved our hat a regular “pack straws”, neither wind nor water tight and most of us were drenched to the skin. In the morning I got up and on looking out of the hut, I found it was surrounded with soldiers. Some of them were rather startled at my
appearance, as I was at theirs. I withdrew and roused up Achong and the Priest. After a while all hands raised up and went out. There were about 50 men armed with long spears and sword each. The spears were all planted in the sand so as entirely to surround the hut. A Mandarin now appeared dressed in red silk with 2 men heaving a larger green umbrella each, on each side of him. He was received by the crew with much respect, every man simultaneously falling down and performing the Ketow several times. I continued to stand upright in the midst of them as I did not perceive anything to induce me to go on my knees. The Mandarin eyed me rather suspiciously but on some of the crew informing them what I was he appeared satisfied and came towards me and inspected me carefully frequently taking notice of the texture of my cloths. The cut of them too appeared to excite their curiosity very much. Altogether I was quite an object of wonders to them all. All the crew were now carefully examined as to what little articles they have saved. Achong and the Priest accompanied the Mandarin to *** the wreck
and then we commenced to northward. In consideration of my arm being in a sling, the Mandarin ordered a hammock, sling or a pole, for me, am I was carried on men’s shoulders. (This is a chief order of conveyance in the country). The Mandarin also traveled in a superb litter made of silk his men running on each side with their umbrellas. He was preceded by a man bearing a long stick with a *** attached, whose duty it appeared to be to keep the road clear, next following was a man bearing a bag, with the rattans, generally 3 of different sizes, he was the flagellator, and any of offending by the way he was, without any ceremony, held down and flagged for merely being in the road of the cortege and not getting out of the way. In the rear came the body guards, generally 6, then the permayors and generally last, the man with the vessel of charcoal and the Mandarin’s cigars. I observed afterward whenever this cortege sweeped through the streets everything was hushed and the people all tried to get out of sight until it was passed. The first part of our road lay over the sandhills, in an inland direction, for about five miles. We then traveled Northward along a road by the side a lake or river.
About 8 we came to a village were we halted for Breakfast. The Mandarin took me into the same apartment with himself, and my meal was served from his tray consisting of Pork, Rice, Fish, and boiled ears of Indian corn. I was kept at a distance from the Mandarin, who observed me very attentively during our meal. He appeared surprised I did not understand the use of chopsticks, and I suppose put me down as a pig for making use of my fingers, but I had neither knife, fork, nor spoon, and being very hungry, I was not nastily particular. We resumed our journey in an hour through fields of Paddy and Bamboos, in about 3 hours we took boat. The Mandarin, his attendants, and myself, in one, and the soldiers and the crew of the junk in two others. Rowing down the stream for about 3 hours we arrived at the mouth of it, and landed on the right bank at a considerable town called Quangpeng. We landed at a shipbuilding yard and were taken to a large sort of hut half full of logs and timber. Here the Mandarin left, turning us over to one of his officers. We were all driven into this building like sheep, and the soldiers then planted their spears quite round it, a small place being left in front to watch about in. I found the crew were allowed to go into the town 2 or 3 at a time, but I was not allowed that privilege. Number of people
now flocked to see us, and they were particularly anxious to see the Ung-Maow (as I found I was called). I could never rightly get the interpretation of this word but I believe it means Foreigner or perhaps Barbarian. I had a keeper to watch over me now which I soon found very irksome for I could not perform the least thing but he was prying into it. Our hat was soon surrounded with half the inhabitants. They were very curious, and I was ordered by my keeper to come out to show myself to the populace. I suppose they took me for a wild man put caged for they were afraid to come near me at first, but finding there was no vice in me they soon grew familiar, some of them gave me sweet nuts and tried hard to engage me in conversation, but I could only shrug my shoulders in token that I did not understand them. In a short time Achong, the Priest, and myself, were escorted by the same soldiers to attend a counsel of Mandarins*** to our being wrecked. We proceeded over a Bridge over a ditch which I afterwards found surrounded the fortified part of the town. It was walled in about 3 miles in *** in the shape of a star with 5 points surrounded by a 40 feet ditch and there were 4 Bridges opposite to each other. The place was defended with about 12 cannons (*** in) of *** caliber, but in a most rusty state and mounted on old ship carriages. The 6 guns picked
up from the junk will have valuable addition to their armament as I found before. I felt they had been transported niter. But the largest portion of the towers was outside the walls and were all trade was carried on. The fortified part was entirely militants.
No. 5 Arriving at the Mandarin’s house we were made to sit on the hard ground which my shipmates Achong and the Priest did not seem to wish. *** is apparently their *** seen the head Mandarin takes the tithest bench (there is generally two of the tithiest *** in the center of the other) the petty ones seat themselves all round on the 2d bench sometimes there is a 3d bench very near the ground where in this instance been seated the scribes. The rest who are *** are made to squat on the ground. I did not much admire the position so got up and sat on the lowest bench some of the soldiers put me off, the noise attracted the head of the house, who gave me permission to sit there. The case of our shipwreck was now thoroughly investigated at least *** or so their was much talking ******. I had several questions put to me related to the ship and what countryman I was. They did not appear *** to *** my being an Englishman. After being there about 3 hours the proceedings terminated with their taking the *** of my fore finger mapping off every joint on the paper containing I suppose my accounts of myself. Their documents were then dispatched to the King resident at the Capital some 150 miles off. It would
take a week for an answer and we should then know how we were to be disposed off. We were now *** back to our lodgings in the shipyard where we found something in the shape of supper consisting of sundry balls of boiled rice and few shrimps which I thought very hard save particularly as the rice was a very course *** but it was the same as the soldiers and poorer class of people get to eat. There were crowds of people to see us it appeared quite an era in their lives, they seemed particularly amused when I began to eat so I did not use the chopsticks the same as Chinese crew did. The crew were all jolly enough, and I must say were very kind to me they gave me a space of every thing they got which however was chiefly tobacco, sometimes a little *** I passed a restless night on a load of wood with a broom for a pillow dreaming of all sorts of things *** day, cornered wish *** of people to see us myself in particular. I got quite disgusted at they being made a show off. Today a Chinese gentleman came to see us. I understood he was at Canton during the war. He was very kind, made me several little presents and sent me two meals per day from his own table which was very good ***. This continued for a fortnight. Day after day now passed away always lots of people but
diminishing daily which I was very glad off. We were daily expecting a reply from the King as to how we were to be disposed of. At last after ten days news came that the King had died and that was reason we had got no answer it would be a week before the new King would be able to attend to us, all the people put off the black clothing and dressed in white. The time now passed much irksome with me as I could speak to nobody and no sort of amusement. On the 15th day of our having been there, a reply came from Head Quarters. I could not hear the purport of the news, but the men began immediately to pack up and about ten they all started. I was very glad for the change and off we went the soldiers keeping company two of them seemed very much afraid have should do some mischief, so kept closer to me than I wished. Presently we came to the Bridge leading into the Fort when I was very coolly marched off by the two soldiers over the Bridge my shipmates passing Friends the inhabits of the town. We passed over the bridge and entered the Fort. I was taken to a sort of barrack. It was a rough building built chiefly of Bamboo half thatched and with one side entirely open inside, part of it was divided of into small *** apartments the *** the public parts of it. Here were several benches of Teak wood it was wild and had a
most barbaric appearance all room of the rids was hung *** complement **** old *** in shape of a pyramid a quantity of old Teak mosquitos *** *** *** and in our corner was the divinity. The *** put in mood of *** Jady show in fact for several weeks. I was expecting to see the Highness and Lady make their appearance inside was some *** *** mad paper in *** and in all of them as well as this was a pair of top *** after the Chinese *** Before this affairs (on high days and holidays) was brought lots of the good things of the life perhaps as many as fifty dishes, these were all placed in rows and I always remarked they placed three pairs of chopsticks so that there is *** three *** when all was placed ready some of the principle men of the building came and worshiped for about 10 minutes afterwards most of the things …..
Pedra Branca (meaning White Rock in Portuguese, also known as Pulau Batu Putih in Malaysia) is a pile of rocks situated where the Straits of Johor meets the South China Sea, measuring at its longest, during low water spring tide, a mere 137 meters. It has a land area of 2,000 m?. It was recorded as early as 1583, by the Dutch voyager Johann van Linschoten, that Pedra Branca is where ships that come and go to and from China pass in great danger and some are left upon it. Between 1824 and 1851, at least 25 sizeable vessels met with disaster on those rocks. Even recently, from 2000 to 2004 there were 2 reports of ship collisions. In 1851, the Horsburgh lighthouse was built and named after a Scottish captain who mapped the waters of the area.