Getting Started
There are many books written already about care of poultry, also a wealth of information on the internet. The following is a brief guide as to chicken essentials
Housing.
A purpose built house isnt essential and many people adapt what they already have, be it a garden shed, old rabbit hutch or childrens play house. The main requirements for poultry are
a) A perch where they can roost at night and feel safe above ground level.
b) A nest box for egg laying where they are comfortable and away from the rest of the flock. This can be lined with straw, shavings or any other of the many bedding materials now available. Hay is not suitable as it houses mould spores, and can also harbour unwanted visitors.
c) A door or pop hole so that they can go in and out easily, depending on its height from the ground they may need a ramp, as continually jumping up and down, while perfectly possible can cause damage to the feet.
The house should be dry and weatherproof, easy to clean and neither too hot in summer or too cold in winter. Also rodent proof as far as is possible, and it goes without saying, big enough to house however many birds you plan to keep.
Feeding.
There are many proprietary feeds available all with a purpose. The following is merely a guide
Hatch to 8 weeks, chick crumb. This can be medicated or not, but the former provides some protection against coccidiosis and is recommended.
8 weeks to point of lay (usually around 20 weeks) Growers pellets, these contain all the nutrients to promote strong growth.
From 20 weeks onwards layers pellets or mash. Pellets are less messy and store more easily.
If you intend to breed your stock then breeders pellets are recommended to encourage fertility, and strong chicks.
There are different feeds available for chickens, ducks and turkeys although in general, all will do reasonably well on standard layers pellets. It is not advisable to feed medicated chick crumb to ducklings or turkey poults. If you intend to breed or show your birds then the correct feed is recommended.
Water.
This should be available at all times, and replaced regularly. Chickens drink large amounts of water , and ducks particularly should have a deep enough container so that they can dip their bills to clear their nostrils, unless they have permanent access to a pond.
Additives
Apple Cider Vinegar is a useful additive to the water on a regular basis (usually once a week. A small amount added to the drinking water, keeps the water clean and acts as a general tonic to the birds, keeping the gut clear and aiding with general intestinal functions.
Grit
Poultry do not have teeth and need small amounts of grit to help them grind their food. Insoluble poultry grit can be purchased from most feed merchants and should always be available.
Oyster shell.
This is mainly fed to give additional calcium for egg production. If good quality feed is used then it should not be necessary to feed it as these pellets contain all the bird needs for good health.
Treats and greens
If birds are allowed to free range for all or part of the day, they will invariably find most of their treats themselves, feeding on grass and plants as well as bugs, worms etc. However if they are in a fixed run then they will welcome these extras. There are many foods that poultry love which will not do them any harm.
Some examples are.
Any greens and beneficial weeds, (Nettles, chickweed, dandelion etc)
Plain Yoghurt
Apples, pears, grapes , and peelings from many fruits, eg pineapple.
Sweetcorn either tinned or whole cobs.
Raisins and berries, Autumn hedgerow fruits are usually popular.
Bread, preferably broken into small pieces to avoid choking.
Garlic can be added to the water periodically to act as a natural wormer.
There are many others and experimentation to find what your birds like will do no harm.
To avoid are raw potato peelings, rhubarb leaves, onion skins and any plants known to be toxic, eg yew berries, foxgloves etc.
Health.
Chickens can succumb very quickly to various illnesses and few vets have the knowledge to treat them. Good hygiene and housing conditions will help to keep disease at bay. Worm your birds with a proprietary wormer ideally twice a year, and check them regularly for lice and mites. The houses should be thoroughly cleaned out and disinfected at least twice a year and bedding changed whenever it looks dirty, which will vary greatly depending on the size of your house and the number of birds. The roosting areas and nest boxes being the areas most likely to need attention.
Dont leave stale food in the runs but remove it regularly if it hasnt been eaten. Hanging greens up so that the birds have to work for it, is a good way to provide them with stimulation and exercise and avoids treats getting dirty on the floor of the run.
A handful of grain, usually wheat, is a good treat to throw down in the evening before putting the birds to bed for the night. It is warming, and they appreciate a more natural food. Never feed too much though as some birds will leave their pellets (or mash) in favour of the treat, which will be detrimental to their health in the long term. ( rather like the child who lives on crisps).
The moult
All birds will go into moult once a year usually starting early autumn although this can be dependant on when they were hatched. It can look alarming, but is perfectly natural and no different to cats and dogs moulting to change their winter coat for their summer one. Some birds appear quite poorly during this time and some extra vitamins may be needed. Cod liver oil is useful at this time as are general poultry tonics available from most feed merchants. There is usually no cause for concern, but there will be no eggs during this time and usually for several weeks afterwards until the new feather growth is complete and the bird is back to full condition.
And finally
All the above is just a brief guide to assist in the general every day welfare of your birds. Providing their basic needs are met they will reward you with many delicious eggs over several years, although numbers will reduce with age, we have birds still laying the occasional (if rather deformed) egg at 8 years old. They give hours of pleasure for very little work and will become members of the family if handled and looked after correctly.
Do take the time to get your birds used to being picked up and held, it will make general health care much easier for you, and less stressful for the bird.
And most of all, enjoy them!!!
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