about our trip!
There is an understanding in Italy, a certain national pride that acknowledges the fact that Italy is Italy alone – superior in some ways, but undeniably unique in every way. Consider the following examples of Italian culture and dichotomy we discovered in this remarkable land. Italy is… A place defined by the word “gusto”, where nearly everything is expressed with raised decibel, a flurry of characteristic inflection and a potentially dangerous flailing of hands. …Cities where traffic lights change from red to yellow to green, illustrating a drag race mentality, yet you can linger for hours at a restaurant after the table is cleared, while your server waits patiently for you to ask for the check. …A country where bacio, which means kiss, is both a sport and an acceptable form of transportation. The former of course, known as bocce ball, the latter… high speed bumper to bumper driving. …A nation teeming with motorcycles and Smart cars, not to mention a million Vespas, many of them maneuvered by very able and aggressive women donning skirts and high heels. …A land where free winery tours are as commonplace as coin operated toilets… scores of the free lavatories are literally holes in the floor. This is a special people as filled with passion and creativity as the landscape is with vineyards and olive groves. Now we know why it is the subject of so many a painters’ canvas. Come… enjoy our photographs, and taste and see for yourself.
Please be patient and wait for the entire site to download before starting the journey. You will know it is ready when the destinations appear on the tabs and the music starts. Once you embark, use your mouse to advance through the photos. Many of them have captions. To view captions, slide your mouse to the center of a photo as it passes, until the image is still… then click on it. To continue on, simply click on the photo again.
siena!
Following a three hour ride north from Leonardo da Vince Airport, we found ourselves in the Province of Siena, and quite off the beaten path. They say all roads lead to Rome, but this final two mile stretch of dirt and stone had us wondering if we’d ever see signs of life again.
Poggio alle Monache, originally an early 18th century monastery, had been taken over by the Nazi’s during the Second World War. It served as their headquarters until Allied bombers took it out. Rebuilt just a few years ago, it became our villa on top of Tuscany for the first seven days of our stay.
Our hosts Stefano and Isabel were a warm and wonderful couple and a constant source of encouragement as we attempted to get acclimated to Italian life. Here we appear blinded under the Tuscan sun.
From our perch overlooking hundreds of miles of forest and vineyard, we could see but one house in the distance. Tuscan law has ensured that it will remain that way.
A view from a trail heading off the back of the mountain. The hills teem with deer, rabbit, pheasant and wild boar… and an incredible abundance of Cuckoo Birds, keeping us thinking we were in a Bavarian clock shop.
A very typical site in Tuscany, ancient villages rising from walled fortresses atop hill after hill. The elevation would suggest thinner air, but it was the unbelievable beauty that was truly breathtaking.
The next series is taken from our “favorite place”… Siena. Starting with the primary basilica, and continuing along narrow streets to the grand piazza, this was our first taste of old Italy. By the time we entered the square, the anticipation was tangible.
I love this shot. I call it “Pigeon Football”. My lens followed this kid, kicking pigeons all over the piazza. But rest assured; no birds were harmed during the filming of this slideshow.
His older sister steps in to ruin his fun… figures!
The next several photos were a small attempt to capture Siena at night. These guys performed the miraculous on their strings. I had to record some of it on my iPhone… it was outstanding.
A young Valentino attracts a small but swooning crowd.
I have a thing for recording Italy’s various forms of law enforcement. No Fiat for this Polizia, this sweet and sleek Alpha Romeo gets everyone’s attention, especially mine.
We enjoyed our Fiat 5 speed and we were surprised every now and then to drive several hundred feet without having to negotiate the typical Tuscan hairpin turn. The very subject of driving in Italy could fill the memory allotted for this webpage.
Let it suffice to say that “Chi va piano, va sano e va lontano" is an Italian saying that has absolutely no relevance anywhere we visited. Translated it says; He who goes slowly goes safely and goes far. For illustration, see www.lifeinitaly.com/flash/default.asp
If the tarmac in Rome served as our welcome mat, all of Tuscany became one big cultivated carpet, rolling out before us.
Stefano arranged for a free tour of Banfi, the largest producer and exporter of wine in Italy. The Sangiovese vineyard country of Montalcino had us hyperventilating and their robust Brunello kept us savoring every sip.
From Pienza, Montepulciano and Buonconvento, north to San Gimignano and back to Siena, the natural beauty of this region stole our affections.
Diane enjoying a lot o' gelato!
Andre at the ancient football stadium in Siena.
arezzo!
The second leg of our travels brought us northeast to the Province of Arezzo, where we found a slice of heaven in Fattoria la Striscia. Here, the path is lined with Italian Cypress.
Built in 1500, owned and restored by renowned Italian actress Ilaria Occhini, staying here was like stepping into a time machine.
Marco was the manager of this genuine agriturismo. Just days before our arrival, they had shipped several thousand bottles of fine Merlot and Chianti, destined for the wine shops of Boston. Here we captured Marco with his daughter Claudia.
The steps to our abode.
No kidding… this was in the center of our headboard. Upon discovering it, Diane thought she would be a bit cantankerous, and threatened to sleep in the living room!
Ok… so this is one of my constant companions. The owner has an affinity for cats, and the place was pouring with a dozen affectionate purring machines, some of them Bangles. This one often waited for me here… in the window just outside our door.
La Striscia’s main structure, commanding the hilltop, overlooking the old city.
What follows is an effort to capture the tranquil feel of this setting.
A mighty Sequoia tree… this pic fails to do it justice.
Additional Disclaimer: No goldfish were harmed either.
The entrance to La Striscia’s underground wine cellar… where stacks and racks of aging barrels and bottles are well tended by the master winemaker under medieval vaulted ceilings.
Breakfast every morning.
The vineyard comprises 14 hectares, or about 35 acres of high quality sangiovese, merlot, trebbiano and other varietals. They surround the villas, the gardens and the pool.
While visiting during harvest would be most spectacular, only in May can you find baby grapes.
Our secluded pool.
Our poolside companion. I called him Catsanova, on account of his relentless affection for Diane.
Just outside our door, this path took us directly to the park.
The park.
Mary and Confidos were the kindest couple. We loved them. Together they saw to our every need, not the least of which was just spending time together, discussing life. They are Tanzanian, Confi being raised under the shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro.
Our final evening in Arezzo - a real memory maker. The only other guests, Jael & Rahjur from Switzerland, asked us to a barbeque. We talked late into the night about family and music and writing. Turned out Jael is a top recording artist in Europe. jaelonline.com
How I wish we had the capacity to show every shot of our journey. Florence, the birthplace of the renaissance gave meaning to the marriage of art and architecture.
rome!
Rome… our final destination, brought us to San Giovanni in Laterano, where our ancient apartment faced the square. There, the oldest and tallest obelisk in Italy stood towering in the sun.
Originally built in the 15th century BC by the reigning Pharaoh, in 357 a special ship was built to bring it to Rome. It is said that Moses looked upon this monument when in Egypt.
These guards, brandishing machine guns, never left their post in the square.
The occasional reminder of America in Rome, an old pink Chevy speeds past the Colosseum.
The Carabinieri are Italy’s military police.
We crossed a few streets in Rome, so it is fair to say that we experienced several brushes with death, not the least of which is illustrated here at the hands of a gladiator.
The next series was taken from our visit to the Colosseum, a mere 5 minute walk from our apartment. It was astounding beyond words. As Diane says, “There’s no place like Rome!”
Constantine’s Arch, built in 312.
Ascending Palatine hill above the Colosseum, we came to the place where Romulus founded Rome in 753 BC.
Here is where the Emperor’s Palace overlooked the Forum and many other Roman landmarks that now lay in ruin.
The actual marble floor of the Emporor’s living quarters, what you might call the original Creaser’s Palace. Diane had to walk on it with her bare feet!
This hill was occupied by the rulers of civilization… Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius and Nero to name a few.
On the right is the Emperor’s private sports stadium. Everything on this hill was originally covered in marble, very little of which remains, as it was stripped, or shall we say “recycled” by the Roman Catholics to build the Vatican. A remnant of this marble is seen on the bottom of the pillars on the left.
A bit disturbing, this modern fortress stands in stark contrast to what lies in ruin all around it. Benito Mussolini built it on the hill, broadcasting his ambition for a return to former imperial glory.
The famous Roman Forum.
When in Rome, do as the Roman’s do… even if it kills you! There were seas of scooters, but far less bicycles. You can see why.
Merulana was our favorite eatery in Rome… mostly because we ate there exclusively. It was very hard not to come back for more.
The same car I drove through Tuscany, only with far less authority.
Nearly everywhere we turned, it was hard not to notice the artistry built into the ground beneath our feet.
Casting our shadow under the shadow of the Colosseum. On our feet all day… about the time we can stand no "amore," we head back to our apartment for a final night in this ancient city.
Aboard Aer Lingus, and heading home. Diane received more than a trip in our Tuscany adventure, she received her wings. Next stop… Ireland. Next year… Ireland.
The warm blue waters of the Mediterranean, on the west coast of Italy.
An added bonus… A window seat, a clear day and the French Alps.
There is an Italian proverb, "Chi si volta, e chi si gira, sempre a casa va finire.” No matter where you go, your home is always there waiting. It was great to go, and it was just as great to return. Thank you dear Lorae.
andré and diane go to italy!!
andré and diane
go to italy!!
This site is inspired by a very unusual gift. Christmas morning, a mere 5 months ago, our oldest daughter Lorae presented us with a video production, announcing our gift of two weeks in Tuscany. When we finally recovered from the surprise, we wiped our tears and started planning. When you are on such a journey, you only wish that others could share it with you. This then, is our meager effort to bring you along.
© alyse french aka still the best daughter ever who slaved away editing 150+ photos and making this site for an entire week!! 2009
